"...Shaw darts into those exalted places that most foodies only conjecture about, and he soaks up the atmosphere for hours and days at a time....Shaw's philosophy, in a nutshell, is that regulars get the best service; therefore, people who enjoy dining out should find restaurants they love and go to them repeatedly....Solid work...." "[Shaw gives] much sound, neighborly advice on getting reservations...and some sane if fairly obvious counsel...Shaw, it emerges, is a rare thing, a food writer who identifies not with cook or critic but with the restaurant owner, whose struggles and exasperations he admires and sympathizes with."